Artificial grass installed in Savannah sits on top of a foundation that determines whether it drains, stays level, resists odor and lasts. Infill, base rock, compaction and underlay are not glamorous topics, but they are what separates a turf installation that performs through humid summers and afternoon thunderstorms from one that puddles, settles and fails. This guide walks a homeowner through the materials and methods that go beneath the surface, so you can understand what to expect, what to ask for in writing, and how to verify that an installer is doing the work right.
Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area, around a pool or on a patio, the same principles apply: proper excavation, a well-compacted base, the right infill for your use, and seams and edges finished to last. You will find practical information about each layer, why it matters in Savannah's sandy soil and high water table, and what a written specification should promise you.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the loose material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props the grass fibres upright so they look full and natural, it protects the backing from UV damage, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and it plays a role in drainage and odor control. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is affordable and effective for most residential applications. Silica is angular and dense, which means it does the job but can feel coarser underfoot than some alternatives.
Coated sand infills are silica grains rounded and smoothed, often with a polymer or mineral coating. These feel softer and warmer underfoot, and they are commonly chosen for yards where barefoot comfort matters. They are also available in various colors to complement different turf shades. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odors, making it popular in pet turf and dog run installations where odor control is a priority. Some coated infills are formulated with antimicrobial properties or cooling minerals (such as Envirofill, a material that can be sourced) to address specific concerns like bacteria growth or surface heat. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is primarily used in sports fields and athletic courts where impact absorption and durability under heavy use are critical; it is rarely recommended for residential yards because of maintenance and temperature considerations. Your infill choice depends on your use, your budget and your priorities for comfort, odor control and appearance.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot, and it is one of the most important details in a written spec. A typical range for residential turf is 2 to 4 pounds per square foot, though pet areas and high-traffic zones often call for more. The infill does several jobs at once: it keeps the fibres standing upright and resilient, it shields the turf backing from the sun's UV rays (which can degrade the material over time), it adds weight to anchor the turf against wind and movement, and it helps with drainage by filtering water down through the pile. Too little infill is a common shortcut in cheap installations. When infill is sparse, the turf looks thin and flat, the backing gets exposed to UV, the fibres mat down under foot traffic, and odors can concentrate because there is not enough material to absorb and distribute them.
The exact amount of infill needed depends on the turf product itself (its pile height, density and backing type), the intended use, and local conditions. A putting green needs more infill than a residential lawn, and a pet area typically needs more than a patio. Never accept an estimate that does not specify infill in pounds per square foot in writing. Ask your installer to name the product, the recommended infill amount for that product in your application, and confirm the figure before work begins. This single number is often the difference between turf that performs for years and turf that disappoints within months.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass starts with removal and excavation. First, any existing lawn, dead grass, weeds or old turf and roots must be stripped away and hauled off. Next, the ground is excavated to a depth that allows for base material, underlay if needed, and the turf itself, while ensuring proper drainage and slope. A weed barrier (typically a landscape fabric) can be laid in some situations to prevent weeds from growing up through the base, though in Savannah's sandy soil this is often less critical than in areas with persistent perennial weeds. The base layer is then installed: crushed base rock or decomposed granite, free-draining materials that compact firmly and provide a stable, level surface. This base is compacted in lifts (thin layers, each rolled with a plate compactor) to eliminate soft spots and voids that would later cause dips and puddles.
On hard surfaces like concrete patios or balconies, the approach is different. Turf should never be glued flat to a concrete slab, because water has nowhere to go and will pool beneath it, leading to odor, mold and backing deterioration. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid over the concrete, the turf is installed over the pad, and the edges are sealed or detailed so water can flow off. For pet areas, a permeable pad beneath the turf helps manage moisture and odor by allowing liquid to drain through to the base below. For playgrounds and sports surfaces, specialized underlays provide impact attenuation and drainage. In every case, the goal is a path for water to move away from the turf backing, whether it drains down through the base or off the edge of a hard surface.
Base Prep on Savannah Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Savannah's soil presents specific challenges for artificial grass installation. The area sits on sandy soil that often rests over a high water table, particularly in low-lying neighborhoods and near the river bluff. In some yards, especially older properties in the Historic District, Ardsley Park and near the squares, the soil can be dense and compacted from decades of foot traffic. The sandy nature of much of the soil means water can percolate readily, but where the water table is high or where the soil has been compacted or mixed with clay, drainage is poor and water sits. This is the problem that base preparation solves.
Proper base prep in Savannah means excavating to remove poor soil, grading the excavated area with a slight fall away from the house and away from any pool or structure, and then laying and compacting a free-draining base material, typically three to four inches of crushed limestone, granite or recycled asphalt. This base is compacted in thin lifts with a plate compactor, not just rolled once at the end. Firm compaction eliminates voids and soft spots that would later settle under foot traffic and create dips, puddles and low spots where water collects and odors concentrate. An uncompacted base is one of the most common failures in cheap installations. If a yard has a genuine drainage problem (standing water after rain, a high water table that makes excavation difficult, or seepage from uphill), the drainage issue must be addressed first through grading, swales, french drains or other site work. If the property owner is unwilling to fix the underlying drainage, artificial grass is not a reliable solution and the job should be declined. A well-compacted base is the platform on which everything else depends.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf has a backing, and that backing has a drainage rate, usually expressed in gallons per hour per square foot. A perforated backing has small holes that allow water to pass through, while a fully permeable backing is made of material that drains water across its entire surface. The difference matters less on a sunny day than during Savannah's intense afternoon thunderstorms or when a pet area gets heavy use. A turf with a high drainage rate (for example, 60 gallons per hour per square foot or more) sheds water quickly, while a slower rate may be acceptable in dry applications like a putting green or a decorative patio where water is not a daily concern. For pet turf, high drainage is essential because urine and moisture must move through the backing into the base below, where they can be managed or treated. For a pool surround, splash water and rain must drain quickly to prevent pooling and slipping hazards.
However, even a fast-draining turf will fail on a base that does not drain. This is why base preparation and drainage work together. A permeable underlay or drainage pad can be installed beneath the turf to accelerate water movement, especially on concrete or in pet areas where moisture control is critical. The underlay sits on top of the compacted base and beneath the turf, creating a secondary drainage layer. On patios and balconies, edge details and slope ensure water flows off the surface. When evaluating a turf product or an installer's proposal, ask for the drainage rate of the turf backing in writing, ask what underlay or pad will be used if any, and confirm that the base will be compacted and graded for drainage. A fast-draining turf on a poor base is money wasted; a well-prepared base under a good turf is an investment that lasts.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rough one are all visible: seams, edges, nails and the final finish. Seams are where two pieces of turf are joined. A proper seam is created by aligning the pile direction (the way the grass fibres lean) so that the grain matches across the joint, then applying seam tape and a specialized adhesive to the backing, pressing the two pieces firmly together and holding them until the adhesive sets. A visible seam, one where the grain does not match or where the edges are not tightly joined, is a sign that the installer did not take care or did not know the technique. Seams can also lift or separate over time if the adhesive was poor quality, the tape was not wide enough, or the base beneath shifted.
Nails or staples hold the turf in place around the perimeter and at key points. They should be spaced correctly (typically every 6 to 8 inches around the edge) and driven flush so they do not catch a foot or catch the eye. Edging is the border detail where the turf meets the surrounding surface. Clean edging uses bender board (a thin, flexible plastic or metal strip) secured to the base to create a neat line, or the turf is cut tight to pavers, concrete or a pool deck and the edge is sealed. A ragged or poorly cut edge tells you the installer was rushing. After installation, the turf is power broomed, a process that stands the fibres upright and spreads the infill evenly across the surface, giving the turf a full, finished appearance and ensuring the infill is distributed where it needs to be. A well-finished installation has tight seams with matched grain, secure and evenly spaced fasteners, clean edges and a power-broomed surface. These details are what you see and walk on every day.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before you hire any turf installation company, including us, you should receive a written specification that details exactly what will be installed and how. A complete spec protects both you and the installer by setting clear expectations. Here is what should be in writing: the turf product name and fiber type (polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically 3 to 4 inches), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and number of seams, the edging type, what cleanup and haul-off are included, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation, covering seams, edges and fasteners).
This specification is your roadmap and your safety net. It prevents misunderstandings about which turf product you are getting, how much infill will be installed, whether the base will be properly compacted, and what happens if something fails. If an installer cannot or will not provide a written spec with these details, that is a red flag. When you are ready to move forward, ask for a free on-site estimate so measurements are accurate and the spec is tailored to your yard. Visit our pricing page for guidance on cost ranges. A homeowner who knows what is in the ground and what is on top of it can make an informed decision and hold any installer accountable to the work promised.